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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.